The ideal litter tray experience
All you need to know
Do I even need a litter tray?
YES! Absolutely YES... and here's why!
Even if your cat goes outside to toilet by choice, they should always have access to an indoor toileting facility as well. There are lots of reasons why your cat may want to avoid going outside, including:
I can hear some of you protesting from here... "but I don't want a litter tray in my house ...if I put a tray down then they will start using it!". My response to this is as follows:
If this isn't enough to convince you, then think of it this way, by using a litter tray...
How many litter trays do I need?
The general rule of thumb is to have one litter tray for each cat, plus one extra tray. Cats that accept each other within one social group may be happy to share a tray. How do I tell if this is the case? Well, generally these are cats that are familiar with each other and choose to share a territory ie these cats should interact in a positive way and groom each other, play together or sit/sleep touching one another. It's vital to provide an adequate number and type of of all resources for each social group of cats if you want to avoid behaviour problems. By "resources", I mean food, water, litter trays, play/scratching areas, comfy resting areas etc
Where should I put the litter tray(s)?
Think about the layout of your home when choosing where to locate the litter trays:
• Avoid placing food and water close to the litter tray.
• Going to the toilet is a vulnerably activity in the wild. Cats usually prefer to be discreet when using the toilet so choose a quiet, private place so don't put the trays in busy locations in the home. Avoid putting the tray near cat flaps or floor length windows as these can be more threatening areas. Don't put trays in spots where your cat could be cornered and unable to escape (eg not in a cupboard/small room or at the end of a hall where another cat can block the exit). Intimidation by other cats can be very subtle and often goes unnoticed by cat owners, yet this can be very stressful for cats.
• Place each litter tray in a different location (cats considers boxes close to each other one large litter tray).
• If a cat is toileting away from its tray, try placing an additional litter tray at the new site (temporarily or permanently) to get the cat using a tray again.
• Going up and down stairs can make life more difficult for a cat when they need to use the tray. In a multi-level home, place a litter tray on each level. If you have an older cat, place a litter tray on the level where this cat spends most of their time.
What size litter tray should I have?
In general, bigger is better and most commercial litter trays are too small. Litter trays should be 1.5 times the length of the cat from the nose to the base of the tail. Suitable alternatives can include concrete mixing trays or home storage containers. You can place the lid behind the box to protect the wall. Older cats need a low entry so you can cut down the side but inspect for any sharp edges.
What design suits cats best - to hood or not to hood?
In my experience open-topped litter trays are preferable to hooded ones but you can always provide both and let you cat(s) decide.
Covered trays are a popular choice because we instinctively think our cats may feel more private when using the tray. Covered trays also appeal to our desire to obscure the sight and odour of our cat's toileting efforts. Many cats adapt to using a covered tray but some actually feel more vulnerable being confined in a small space with only one exit point. This is more of a concern in multi-cat households where there is more likelihood of bullying. If you are going to use a hooded tray I'd suggest going LARGE! If they have a flap then ensure it is transparent and ideally choose one where the front part and flap can be lifted up. This makes removing soiled litter easier but also means that you have an intermediate option if your cat wants a more open/exposed exit route.
I've seen some really funky and "clever" cat litter tray designs are they any good?
Cats are usually pretty fastidious about where on the litter they prefer to go and also what position they assume to do toilet. For this reason, most circular or triangular shaped trays I have seen offer limited space for cats to manoeuvre inside. They are even more of an issues for larger cats or those with mobility issues.
Some trays area marketed with the benefit of a top access point rather than floor level. These may help stop cat litter tracking outside the tray but area a very awkward and unnatural way for a cat to access their toileting area and your cat may find it harder to avoid landing in a previously soiled area. If your cat is elderly or has a painful condition then this route of access would be highly inappropriate.
There are some trays that double as a cat carry cage - I can't see any advantages for your cat by using this type of tray and if you need the cage in an emergency it will be a hinderence. Your cat may make a negative association with using the litter tray if it has been used to take them to the vet.
Self cleaning/automated rake systems are available and may be designed more for the human convenience market. For single cat households they may be a useful way of keeping the soiled material out of sight/smell for you and your cat; however for cats peeing large volumes of urine or with softer than normal faeces they tend to be inappropriate as they become soiled very quickly. They can come with a sensor that tracks how many times the tray has been used but they are certainly not a substitute for checking what your cat has been doing! They can make unexpected noise and movement so for nervous cats they may be counterproductive. There are also products to train your cat to use a human toilet. Although a potentially amusing gimmick, these systems do not respect a cats normal toileting behaviour. We already expect our cats to tolerate everything we inflict upon them without making them jump through hoops to perform a natural process!
Which cat litter should I purchase?
There are countless brands of cat litter available but they usually fall into one of several common types:
You can always give your cat a choice of cat litter. The best way to do this is to provide multiple boxes with different litters and variable litter depths rather than chopping and changing from one type of litter to another (this will only confuse your cat and increase the risk of them house soiling instead). On this note if you ever need to change your cats litter then do so gradually either by mixing in the new with the old or by using a tray of the new alongside a tray of the old. You can tempt your cat into using the new litter by spraying the tray with Feliway and adding some freshly soiled old cat litter to the new tray so it smells of your cat.
How much cat litter do I need in the tray?
If you are using a clumping cat litter then 10-12 cm of litter is needed. This may look and sound like a lot but the litter lasts a lot longer than non-clumping types and importantly it avoids thee urine sinking to the bottom of the tray making it easier to scoop it out without having to scrape the bottom of the tray and risk leaving crumbly remnants or urine behind. If you choose to use non clumping litter, then a minimum of 3cm of litter is advisable.
Do you recommend using litter tray accessories?
Most are designed for humans and are not particularly cat friendly.
Most cats dislike perfumed or dusty litters. If your litter tray cleaning regime is up to scratch then your shouldn't need to mask any unpleasant odours with artificial aromas. Many cat litters have good odour neutralising properties too. I find making litter scooping as easy for yourself as possible really does help to keep odours at bay. My list of essential litter tray cleaning stuff is available in the products I use section.
Plastic tray liners - Cats that like to dig or scratch over their litter with exuberance tend to get their claws stuck in plastic box liners which is unpleasant for them and renders the liners useless, so I do not recommend using these.
How should I clean the litter trays?
Remove waste at a minimum of once per day and add litter as needed.
Wash the litter box every 1-4 weeks using soap and hot water only.
Avoid strong chemicals or any ammonia-based products. Some disinfectants (Dettol) are toxic to cats.
Avoid using cleaning products that you use elsewhere in the home as the scent profile may be recognised by your cat as having a litter tray association so could confuse your cat if they recognise their litter tray cleaner smell in other places around the home.
How do I stop cat litter being tracked through my house?
Some cat litters are worse at tracking litter than others. Generally the cheaper dusty litters tend to leave dusty foot prints. Get yourself a soft, flexible mat that is easily washable and traps the tracked litter - here's what I recommend. Of course always make sure you don't use the same sort of mat outside your bath or your cat may get confused!
YES! Absolutely YES... and here's why!
Even if your cat goes outside to toilet by choice, they should always have access to an indoor toileting facility as well. There are lots of reasons why your cat may want to avoid going outside, including:
- Inclement weather - cold, wet, snow, storms
- Fear - if your cat's access to the exit route is close to a noisy appliance, busy thoroughfare or has been blocked by another cat/dog this may put your cat off going outside. Equally once outside, your cat may have been ambushed by other/neighbourhood cats, shooed away by neighbours, building works nearby etc.
- Physical obstructions - no cat flap/free access to outdoors (ie relying on you to open a window/door)
- Disease - painful conditions like arthritis can make usual access routes less desirable. Urinary tract disorders or conditions that cause your cat to drink/pee more or diseases causing diarrhoea may cause your cat to need the toilet more frequently and more urgently and your cat may not have time to get outdoors.
I can hear some of you protesting from here... "but I don't want a litter tray in my house ...if I put a tray down then they will start using it!". My response to this is as follows:
- We expect our cats to put up with an awful lot without realising it already.
- If they choose to use the litter tray then they obviously prefer not to go outside all the time.
- The more you make your cat's life as stress free and comfortable as possible, then the happier they will be. The happier they are, the happier you'll be!
- Responsible dog owners are obliged to scoop up after their pets so providing a litter tray is similarly part of being a good cat owner
If this isn't enough to convince you, then think of it this way, by using a litter tray...
- You are significantly reducing the chance of your cat(s) getting caught short and using an area like the carpet, your favourite rug or duvet!
- Once a cat has started house soiling it can be a long and difficult process to correct and will definitely involve litter trays at that stage. Far better to prevent an issue arising in the first place.
- This is not just me being OTT, it is considered best practice by International Cat Care & ISFM:
How many litter trays do I need?
The general rule of thumb is to have one litter tray for each cat, plus one extra tray. Cats that accept each other within one social group may be happy to share a tray. How do I tell if this is the case? Well, generally these are cats that are familiar with each other and choose to share a territory ie these cats should interact in a positive way and groom each other, play together or sit/sleep touching one another. It's vital to provide an adequate number and type of of all resources for each social group of cats if you want to avoid behaviour problems. By "resources", I mean food, water, litter trays, play/scratching areas, comfy resting areas etc
Where should I put the litter tray(s)?
Think about the layout of your home when choosing where to locate the litter trays:
• Avoid placing food and water close to the litter tray.
• Going to the toilet is a vulnerably activity in the wild. Cats usually prefer to be discreet when using the toilet so choose a quiet, private place so don't put the trays in busy locations in the home. Avoid putting the tray near cat flaps or floor length windows as these can be more threatening areas. Don't put trays in spots where your cat could be cornered and unable to escape (eg not in a cupboard/small room or at the end of a hall where another cat can block the exit). Intimidation by other cats can be very subtle and often goes unnoticed by cat owners, yet this can be very stressful for cats.
• Place each litter tray in a different location (cats considers boxes close to each other one large litter tray).
• If a cat is toileting away from its tray, try placing an additional litter tray at the new site (temporarily or permanently) to get the cat using a tray again.
• Going up and down stairs can make life more difficult for a cat when they need to use the tray. In a multi-level home, place a litter tray on each level. If you have an older cat, place a litter tray on the level where this cat spends most of their time.
What size litter tray should I have?
In general, bigger is better and most commercial litter trays are too small. Litter trays should be 1.5 times the length of the cat from the nose to the base of the tail. Suitable alternatives can include concrete mixing trays or home storage containers. You can place the lid behind the box to protect the wall. Older cats need a low entry so you can cut down the side but inspect for any sharp edges.
What design suits cats best - to hood or not to hood?
In my experience open-topped litter trays are preferable to hooded ones but you can always provide both and let you cat(s) decide.
Covered trays are a popular choice because we instinctively think our cats may feel more private when using the tray. Covered trays also appeal to our desire to obscure the sight and odour of our cat's toileting efforts. Many cats adapt to using a covered tray but some actually feel more vulnerable being confined in a small space with only one exit point. This is more of a concern in multi-cat households where there is more likelihood of bullying. If you are going to use a hooded tray I'd suggest going LARGE! If they have a flap then ensure it is transparent and ideally choose one where the front part and flap can be lifted up. This makes removing soiled litter easier but also means that you have an intermediate option if your cat wants a more open/exposed exit route.
I've seen some really funky and "clever" cat litter tray designs are they any good?
Cats are usually pretty fastidious about where on the litter they prefer to go and also what position they assume to do toilet. For this reason, most circular or triangular shaped trays I have seen offer limited space for cats to manoeuvre inside. They are even more of an issues for larger cats or those with mobility issues.
Some trays area marketed with the benefit of a top access point rather than floor level. These may help stop cat litter tracking outside the tray but area a very awkward and unnatural way for a cat to access their toileting area and your cat may find it harder to avoid landing in a previously soiled area. If your cat is elderly or has a painful condition then this route of access would be highly inappropriate.
There are some trays that double as a cat carry cage - I can't see any advantages for your cat by using this type of tray and if you need the cage in an emergency it will be a hinderence. Your cat may make a negative association with using the litter tray if it has been used to take them to the vet.
Self cleaning/automated rake systems are available and may be designed more for the human convenience market. For single cat households they may be a useful way of keeping the soiled material out of sight/smell for you and your cat; however for cats peeing large volumes of urine or with softer than normal faeces they tend to be inappropriate as they become soiled very quickly. They can come with a sensor that tracks how many times the tray has been used but they are certainly not a substitute for checking what your cat has been doing! They can make unexpected noise and movement so for nervous cats they may be counterproductive. There are also products to train your cat to use a human toilet. Although a potentially amusing gimmick, these systems do not respect a cats normal toileting behaviour. We already expect our cats to tolerate everything we inflict upon them without making them jump through hoops to perform a natural process!
Which cat litter should I purchase?
There are countless brands of cat litter available but they usually fall into one of several common types:
- Pellets (wood, newspaper)
- Silica crystals
- Clay (Fuller's earth)
- Corn
You can always give your cat a choice of cat litter. The best way to do this is to provide multiple boxes with different litters and variable litter depths rather than chopping and changing from one type of litter to another (this will only confuse your cat and increase the risk of them house soiling instead). On this note if you ever need to change your cats litter then do so gradually either by mixing in the new with the old or by using a tray of the new alongside a tray of the old. You can tempt your cat into using the new litter by spraying the tray with Feliway and adding some freshly soiled old cat litter to the new tray so it smells of your cat.
How much cat litter do I need in the tray?
If you are using a clumping cat litter then 10-12 cm of litter is needed. This may look and sound like a lot but the litter lasts a lot longer than non-clumping types and importantly it avoids thee urine sinking to the bottom of the tray making it easier to scoop it out without having to scrape the bottom of the tray and risk leaving crumbly remnants or urine behind. If you choose to use non clumping litter, then a minimum of 3cm of litter is advisable.
Do you recommend using litter tray accessories?
Most are designed for humans and are not particularly cat friendly.
Most cats dislike perfumed or dusty litters. If your litter tray cleaning regime is up to scratch then your shouldn't need to mask any unpleasant odours with artificial aromas. Many cat litters have good odour neutralising properties too. I find making litter scooping as easy for yourself as possible really does help to keep odours at bay. My list of essential litter tray cleaning stuff is available in the products I use section.
Plastic tray liners - Cats that like to dig or scratch over their litter with exuberance tend to get their claws stuck in plastic box liners which is unpleasant for them and renders the liners useless, so I do not recommend using these.
How should I clean the litter trays?
Remove waste at a minimum of once per day and add litter as needed.
Wash the litter box every 1-4 weeks using soap and hot water only.
Avoid strong chemicals or any ammonia-based products. Some disinfectants (Dettol) are toxic to cats.
Avoid using cleaning products that you use elsewhere in the home as the scent profile may be recognised by your cat as having a litter tray association so could confuse your cat if they recognise their litter tray cleaner smell in other places around the home.
How do I stop cat litter being tracked through my house?
Some cat litters are worse at tracking litter than others. Generally the cheaper dusty litters tend to leave dusty foot prints. Get yourself a soft, flexible mat that is easily washable and traps the tracked litter - here's what I recommend. Of course always make sure you don't use the same sort of mat outside your bath or your cat may get confused!
